Elementor #7877

Almora

Although I was born in Uttarakhand (Pantnagar) and spent my entire childhood here, my travels within my home state had been quite limited. Apart from a few family trips to Nainital and my yearly summer vacation visits to my maternal gradparent’s city of Dehradoon, I had never explored any other picturesque hill towns that make Uttarakhand one of India’s most beautiful states.

Now, during last 30 years, between living and working in varies cities of India, I travel to Rudrapur frequently to visit my parents. Realizing that there was much to explore in my home state, I resolved to explore all of the major attractions of my home state Uttrakhand during these visits every year.

Most of my trips were supposed to be solo trips. I kept a challenge to myself – To travel in the least budget possible. To keep the costs low, I was to rely almost entirely on general-class train travel, state transport buses, and shared taxis. I was to stay in budget homestays and dormitories, ate at local restaurants, and travelled the way many locals do every day. The idea wasn’t just to save money – it was to experience the region in its most authentic form.

During summers of 2025, I decided to start this resolve by exploring Almora. Almora was founded in the 16th century by Kalyan Chand of the Chand dynasty and later developed further during the British period. Almora acts almost like a doorway into the deeper Kumaon hills. From Almora, routes open towards Kausani, Bageshwar, Jageshwar, Ranikhet, Binsar, Chaukori and Pithoragarh. For anyone travelling through this part of Uttarakhand, Almora is not just a destination but also a convenient entry point to many of the region’s major hill towns, temples and Himalayan viewpoints.

Day 1 (Saturday): Rudrapur to Almora

The first day of my solo trip began before sunrise. From Rudrapur City station, I boarded the Dehradun–Kathgodam Express (Train No. 14120) at 5:30 AM.

As the train rolled past Lalkuan, I caught sight and familiar smell of the paper mill. Almost instantly, I was reminded of my school days in Pantnagar, where the distinctive smell from the mill would often drift across the town, especially during the early mornings and late evenings. Funny how a simple smell can unlock memories and transport you back to another time.

I reached Haldwani Railway Station by 7:00 AM after a comfortable 1.5-hour journey. The train ticket cost only ₹35, proving once again that trains remains one of the most economical ways to travel. After getting down at the station, I walked for about 15 minutes to the Haldwani bus stand. The morning air was fresh, and the town was just beginning to wake up.

From the bus stand, I boarded a bus bound for Bageshwar, which follows the scenic Bhowali-Almora route. The bus ticket cost ₹210. Like many hill buses, it did not depart on schedule. Instead, it waited until every seat was occupied before finally starting the journey.

Soon after leaving Haldwani, the road started climbing into the Kumaon hills. However, the journey wasn’t entirely smooth. As expected, there was a heavy traffic jam near Kainchi Dham, which delayed the journey by around 45 minutes. Despite the delay, the winding mountain roads, pine forests, and ever-changing valley view’s made the journey enjoyable

Reached Almora by 12 .
Almora’s traffic system is shaped by the town’s ridge-like geography. Instead of a flat road network, the town works through three roughly parallel road levels — the upper Mall Road, the Lower Mall Road, and the Dharanaula/link-road side that connects onward routes. Around Karbala Tiraha, traffic branches towards the Upper and Lower Mall Road, while further ahead the route also connects towards Dharanaula and roads leading to Chitai, Jageshwar, Bageshwar and Pithoragarh. Because these hill roads are narrow and the old town has limited space for widening, traffic is managed through one-way movement on key stretches, especially around Mall Road, the bus stand and market areas. As a visitor, the system may feel confusing at first, but it is a practical way to keep vehicles moving in a compact hill town.
First task was to search for accommodation. Upon a quick stroll, Found a decent looking Bhadreshwar Guest House on the main Mal road very close to the Bus stand.
Got a room in 800 rs. The room had a beautiful view of the Kumaon hills
After leaving my luggage, decided to have lunch before exploring the Almora town.
Quick search directed me to “Simple Family Restaurant”
The restaurant serve freshly prepared veg. thali with tava roties and Kumauni Kadhi.
After hearty lunch, decided to explore the city. The first point of attraction and closest to the bus stand at the Mall Road – Govind Ballabh Pant Public Museum

Govind Ballabh Pant Public Museum

Fist of all, don’t expect a Delhi, Mathura or Mumbai museum. It is far smaller than most of them. Spread around 5 rooms, it hardly fits the criteria of a museum.
Since it is located on the mal road close to bus stop., It is frequently visited by tourists.
It’s name is a sign of salutation to Pandit Govind Ballabh Pants contribution as a freedom fighter and towards the development of Uttarakhand after getting freedom. This museum has a good set of very old antique objects connected to Katyuri and Chand emperors which ruled Uttarakhand for fairly a long time.
Most of the collection consists of works of Kumauni very old style painting called Aspen in the museum.
There is no entry fee for guests in this museum and it is nice place to have a momentary look at the rich heritage of Uttarakhand.
Govind Ballabh Pant Public Museum Timing – This museum is situated opposite to the bus stand. The museum remains closed on Mondays and other Government Holidays. It is open from 10:30 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.
Next stop was Nanda devi mandir. 600 meters from the museum.
My phone GPS confuced me a couple of times at it kept me pass the U turn I had to take from mal road up towards Thana Bazar. I had to ask for directions by locals.

Nanda Devi Temple is the most important temple of the region. Mata Nanda Devi is the patron goddess here of the common people and to the rulers of the earlier times. The temple of Nanda Devi is very old, attractive and the major attraction of the town of Almora. The sculptures here are extravagant and the view is breathtaking. Not the richness, but the beliefs connected with the temple of Nanda Devi make it a popular pilgrimage spot in Uttarakhand. the temple is the seat of a divinity who is worshipped as the daughter of Kumauni people. The patron goddess of the Chand dynasty, the divinity is believed to be the savior of the residents of Kumaon with other parts of Uttarakhand. Nanda Devi Temple features a superb monument decorated with a stone amalaka or crown, encircled by a wooden roof. The walls of the temple have intricately carved images and statues.
To my surprise, I found some minor depiction of erotic carvings on the outer wall at the base of the temple. I had though that it only existed in Khajuraho temples but I guess the reasons behind the Khajuraho images also applied here also. Read my blog on Khajuraho visit. The carvings were not that elaborate as compared to Khajuraho. Never the less, they are hard to be missed.

By 3 pm, I was done exploring the Nanda Devi Temple. I headed to the next destination – Katarmal Sun Temple

Back to the Mall road, I asked a couple of locals of the best way to visit the Sun Temple and the suggestion was to take a shared cab till Kosi and then follow a 1.5 km trek.
7 km from Almora, towards the Ranikhet Road, this is the 2^nd most main temple devoted the Sun God in India after the Konark Temple, Orissa. It is believed to be more than 800 years old and is of great historical importance. The Temple is well known for its intricate sculptures.
The Katarmal Sun Temple is a monument of historical importance and also is an example of intricate sculpturing. The first ray of the sun falls straight on this Sun Temple. Katarmal Sun Temple complex has one major temple, bounded by 45 smaller shrines elegantly carved temples nearby it.
The Katarmal Sun temple, noted for its superb architecture, artistically made stone and metallic sculptures and wonderfully carved pillars and wooden doors, the picture of Surya in the temple dates back to 12th century. The Katarmal Sun temple has some unique architectural approach and the images carved on the walls are very intricately complete. Though amidst ruins, it still stands as a main point of magnetism in the region and lots of devotees visit here to offer prayer to the Sun God. The Katarmal Sun temple is a main pilgrimage centre and magnetize thousands of Sun God devotes each year from different parts of the country and planet.
History of Katarmal Sun Temple Almora – Katarmal Sun temple was constructed by KATARMALLA, a Katyuri Raja, in the 9th century. In the near the beginning medieval era, Kumaon was lined by the Katyuri dynasty.
The Katarmal Sun temple is now sheltered and preserved by the Archeological Survey of India and the government is also constructing road and can be without problems accessed by foot as a small attractive trek of 1.5 kmamong the broad deodars leads you to the Sun Katarmal Temple.In addition Katarmal and Konark, there are 3 other sun temples in the country are Modhera sun temple in Gujarat, Martand temple in Kashmir and Osia in Rajasthan.
To and fro trek to Sun temple trained my energy completely. I realized that steep hill climbs with thin air makes breathing really difficult.
Back at Kosi, I took a bus which took an extended route via Lower Mall road and dropped me at Karbala Tiraha.
It was a blessing in disguise, as the next PoI in my list was – Bright End Corner
It is a famous spot situated 2 km from Almora. It is known for the picturesque views it offers of the Sunrise and Sunset through the great Himalayan mountains. It is a tranquil and serene place that soothes and freshens the spirit. There is a library here named after Swami Vivekananda. It houses many books of literature, teachings of great men etc. There is also a Vivekananda Memorial near the library.
After spending some quite moments, From Bright end corner, I took a stroll along the mall road. The sun set had brough a little chill in the air but notting significant to make you shiver.
Some rest back at my hotel room and I walked to the familiar – to “Simple Family Restaurant” for dinner. A thali again and I calle dit a day.

Day 2 (Sunday)

Day was the second and the last day of my trip.
I had reserved it for the most exiting part of the trip – excursion to Zero Point and visit the Kasar Devi Temple on the way. On SH-37 (Almora – Bageshwar Road), Kasar Devi temple is about 10 km from the Mall road.
17 km further from Kasar Devi on the same road is Binsar wildlife sanctuary. On the way, you have to buy entry ticket at the Sanctuary gate. One has to walk inside the sanctuary for another 1.5 kilometres to reach zero point.
After freshening up had breakfast comprising of the famous kumaun aalu paratha with chana gravy and a hot cup of tea.
The challenge in front of me was to reach Binsar Sanctuary as it being a bit secluded space, public transport options are not available. Only option is via your private vehicle or you hire a private taxi.
I inquired with a few cab operators on the Mal road and most of them asked for 2500 rs. For to and fro journey.
I was about to make my mind when I came across a kiosk which was renting out two wheelers for rs. 500 a day. I decided to go with a two wheeler option. Besides being cost savy, its fun to ride through the cool breeze of green and lush mountains.
I opted for a scooty and go it filled up with petrol for rs. 100. I was soon driving thought he hilly terrain towards my first destination of the day – Kasar Devi Temple
Turned on my phone’s GPS which guided me swiftly to the base of the temple. After parking my scooty, I climbed up to the hilltop.

Kasar Devi Temple – Kasar Devi Temple is one of the most peaceful and spiritually charged places near Almora. Located about 8 to 10 km from Almora town on the Almora–Bageshwar road, the temple sits on a hilltop surrounded by pine and deodar trees. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Kasar Devi, who is worshipped as a form of Goddess Durga, and the shrine is believed to date back to the 2nd century CE. Unlike many large temple complexes, Kasar Devi has a very simple and quiet presence. The short climb from the road to the temple passes through rocks, trees and open mountain air, and by the time one reaches the top, the noise of the road almost disappears. The place became widely known after Swami Vivekananda visited and meditated here in the 1890s. What makes Kasar Devi special is not just the temple but the entire atmosphere around it. From the hilltop, the view opens up beautifully towards the Kumaon valleys and, on a clear day, the snow-clad Himalayan peaks can be seen in the distance. The temple premises are calm and ideal for sitting quietly for a few minutes. For a traveller, Kasar Devi is a good stop before proceeding towards Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. The road from Almora is scenic and not very difficult, though the final walk to the temple involves a small climb.

After spending some time at the temple, I carried on with my journey to the next destination – Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and Zero Point

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and Zero Point – The sanctuary spreads across a compact but richly wooded Himalayan landscape of oak, and pine forests. Binsar was once associated with the Chand rulers of Kumaon and later came to be valued for its quiet colonial-era forest estates and uninterrupted mountain views. It was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1988 to protect the oak forests. The drive from Kasar Devi towards Binsar gradually becomes quieter, with fewer houses, thicker forest cover and sharper mountain bends, giving a clear feeling that one is entering a protected natural zone.

The sanctuary charm lies more in the silent forest trails, bird calls, cool mountain air and sudden openings that reveal distant valleys. Walking through the forest, the thick canopy, moss-covered stones and fallen leaves create a very different mood from the open viewpoints around Almora.

At Binsar wildlife sanctuary gate , I stopped to register my details at the forest gate.
Forest department charges ₹150 per person for entry and for Small vehicle / two-wheeler or car entry: around ₹250
From the wildlife sanctuary gate till the walking point, it was only me driving though the quietness of the jungles. The drive of about 7 km from Binsar entry gate till the walking is one of the best drives I have had so far. It is one experience which is going to live fresh in my mind throughout my life. Though the road was broken at several places and required me to slow down occasionally. I stopped at several places to just listen to the quietness of the jungle and accasional sound of birds chrping or sound of crickets.
At the end of the trail, I finally reached the entry to the walking point. Parked my scooty and started to walk towards the zero point
After entering the sanctuary, vehicles can go only up to a certain point near the forest rest house area, after which one has to walk through the forest trail for around 1.5 km. The trek is not very long, but because of the altitude and gradual climb, it can feel slightly tiring if done quickly. The path passes through dense oak trees, and the silence of the forest makes the walk as enjoyable as the destination itself.
. I was the only person taking this trail and quite candidly, it made me bit nervous. With the fear of any wild animal showing anytime. I some how managed to gather courage and carry on. There were a few moments, when I thought of retreating. Travelling solo has its side effets after all. The fear of any mishappening and your family completely unaware of it makes you feel nervous. I share my GPS live location with my family on solo trips, but here signals were patchy and GPS kept disconnecting.
I finally managed to reach the zero point
Zero Point is the main highlight inside Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and is considered the highest accessible viewpoint in the sanctuary.
Zero Point opens into a watchtower-style viewpoint from where the Himalayan range appears in a wide 360-degree sweep on a clear day. Peaks such as Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Shivling, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot and Panchachuli can be seen from here when the weather is favourable. This is the kind of place where clear skies matter a lot; clouds, haze or afternoon mist can easily hide the mountains.
Unfortunately when I arrived here, the sky had turned cloudy and the mountain peaks were not very clearly visitble.
I did not complain, because commin to this point was an experience in it self.
After spenfin some quite time and taking pictures, I started by return trek to the start point where my scooty was parked.
Return drive on the scooty was a similar soothing experience . I was back to Almora by 1:30
After dropping the scooty back, I bought Almora’s famous Bal Mithai from Kheem Singh Mohan Singh Rautela Sweets near the Mall Road bus station. This small, traditional sweet shop is almost an institution in Almora. It does not look like a modern sweet showroom, but that is exactly where its charm lies. Bal Mithai here is a dark brown khoya-based sweet, cut into small blocks and coated with tiny white sugar balls. It has a rich, slightly caramel-like taste and is one of the most popular things travellers carry back from Almora. Along with Bal Mithai, the shop is also known for Singori, another Kumaoni sweet wrapped in leaves. Since the shop is close to the bus stand, it is an easy last stop before leaving Almora.
2 PM and I was in a bus for Haldwani. The bus left in time but was caught in massive traffic jam at Kainchi Dham. It delayded the journey by

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